“When you grow a vegetable yourself, you’re less likely to boil it to death,” Ms. Allen said smartly. Every chef should have to work on a farm for a year before setting foot in the kitchen, she added. “Maybe then they’d be less likely to bang on the counter and demand things.” ~Darina Allen
The recent New York Times article about Darina Allen included lovely quotes like this one and recipes to inspire some delicious spring cooking. I also remember hearing the author speak at Terra Madre back in 2004. All of this made me want to run out and buy this book. I've now checked all my favorite east-side book stores. Really just wanted to get a peek at it before taking the plunge but it's nowhere to be found. What's up with that?
The recent New York Times article about Darina Allen included lovely quotes like this one and recipes to inspire some delicious spring cooking. I also remember hearing the author speak at Terra Madre back in 2004. All of this made me want to run out and buy this book. I've now checked all my favorite east-side book stores. Really just wanted to get a peek at it before taking the plunge but it's nowhere to be found. What's up with that?
Guess I'm off to forage greens from garden instead so I can make this soup.
Forager’s Soup
Adapted from “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen (Kyle Books, 2009)
Time: 20 minutes
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup diced onion
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock, or hot water
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
About 8 ounces (4 cups) mixed chopped spring greens, like sorrel, watercress, ramps, arugula, dandelion or chives
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 ounces chorizo or bacon, finely diced
Wild garlic or chive flowers (optional).
1. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit into the top of a heavy pot. Melt butter in pot over medium-high heat. When it foams, add onion and potato and stir to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to very low, rest parchment paper (to trap steam) on top of vegetables. Cover with lid and cook gently 10 minutes, until vegetables are soft; they should not brown at all.
2. Heat stock (or water), milk and cream in a saucepan until just simmering. Remove parchment from vegetables. Add hot liquid to vegetables and simmer until potatoes and onions are fully cooked, 5 to 10 minutes more. Add greens and simmer uncovered 2 to 3 minutes until greens are just cooked through (do not cover pot or overcook, or else bright green color will be lost.) In a blender or with a hand blender, purée until smooth. Taste for salt and pepper.
3. Heat oil in a small skillet. Add chorizo or bacon and cook until fat is rendered and meat is crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Reserve cooking oil.
4. Recipe can be made up to a day in advance and refrigerated. When ready to serve, gently reheat soup over medium-low heat, uncovered. On top of each bowl, scatter chorizo or bacon bits, sprinkle a few drops of oil and garnish with flowers, if using.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
I'm patiently waiting for our rhubarb to grow large enough for a harvest. By then, maybe I'll even have an oven so I can bake this cake.
Country Rhubarb Cake
Adapted from “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen (Kyle Books, 2009)
Time: 1 1/2 hours
3 cups all-purpose flour, more for work surface
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cup granulated sugar, more for sprinkling
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 stick (4 ounces) butter, cut into pieces, at cool room temperature
2 eggs
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 1/2 pounds (about 8 stalks) rhubarb, thinly sliced
Light brown sugar and softly whipped cream, for serving.
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, sift flour, salt, 3 tablespoons sugar and the baking soda together. With fingers, rub in butter until mixture is sandy. Beat 1 egg and add to flour mixture. Add buttermilk and blend just until mixture forms dough; it will be quite stiff and sticky. Turn out onto a floured work surface and divide in two. Roll out each piece to fit a 10-inch round baking dish. Line bottom of pan with one round, pinching together any tears.
2. Cover dough with rhubarb and sprinkle rhubarb evenly with 1 heaping cup sugar. Place second pastry round on top and pinch edges together. Pinch together any holes. Beat remaining egg with 1 teaspoon water and brush it on dough.
3. Place a baking sheet in oven to catch drips, and place baking dish on it. Bake until crust is golden and rhubarb is soft and juicy, about 1 hour. Immediately sprinkle with granulated sugar. Serve warm, with a sprinkle of brown sugar and whipped cream on each serving.
Yield: 8 servings.
Forager’s Soup
Adapted from “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen (Kyle Books, 2009)
Time: 20 minutes
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup diced onion
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock, or hot water
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
About 8 ounces (4 cups) mixed chopped spring greens, like sorrel, watercress, ramps, arugula, dandelion or chives
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 ounces chorizo or bacon, finely diced
Wild garlic or chive flowers (optional).
1. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit into the top of a heavy pot. Melt butter in pot over medium-high heat. When it foams, add onion and potato and stir to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to very low, rest parchment paper (to trap steam) on top of vegetables. Cover with lid and cook gently 10 minutes, until vegetables are soft; they should not brown at all.
2. Heat stock (or water), milk and cream in a saucepan until just simmering. Remove parchment from vegetables. Add hot liquid to vegetables and simmer until potatoes and onions are fully cooked, 5 to 10 minutes more. Add greens and simmer uncovered 2 to 3 minutes until greens are just cooked through (do not cover pot or overcook, or else bright green color will be lost.) In a blender or with a hand blender, purée until smooth. Taste for salt and pepper.
3. Heat oil in a small skillet. Add chorizo or bacon and cook until fat is rendered and meat is crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Reserve cooking oil.
4. Recipe can be made up to a day in advance and refrigerated. When ready to serve, gently reheat soup over medium-low heat, uncovered. On top of each bowl, scatter chorizo or bacon bits, sprinkle a few drops of oil and garnish with flowers, if using.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
I'm patiently waiting for our rhubarb to grow large enough for a harvest. By then, maybe I'll even have an oven so I can bake this cake.
Country Rhubarb Cake
Adapted from “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” by Darina Allen (Kyle Books, 2009)
Time: 1 1/2 hours
3 cups all-purpose flour, more for work surface
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cup granulated sugar, more for sprinkling
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 stick (4 ounces) butter, cut into pieces, at cool room temperature
2 eggs
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 1/2 pounds (about 8 stalks) rhubarb, thinly sliced
Light brown sugar and softly whipped cream, for serving.
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, sift flour, salt, 3 tablespoons sugar and the baking soda together. With fingers, rub in butter until mixture is sandy. Beat 1 egg and add to flour mixture. Add buttermilk and blend just until mixture forms dough; it will be quite stiff and sticky. Turn out onto a floured work surface and divide in two. Roll out each piece to fit a 10-inch round baking dish. Line bottom of pan with one round, pinching together any tears.
2. Cover dough with rhubarb and sprinkle rhubarb evenly with 1 heaping cup sugar. Place second pastry round on top and pinch edges together. Pinch together any holes. Beat remaining egg with 1 teaspoon water and brush it on dough.
3. Place a baking sheet in oven to catch drips, and place baking dish on it. Bake until crust is golden and rhubarb is soft and juicy, about 1 hour. Immediately sprinkle with granulated sugar. Serve warm, with a sprinkle of brown sugar and whipped cream on each serving.
Yield: 8 servings.
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